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Theses are everyone biggest concerns when buying, selling or maintaining a home, and rightly so! These are the most invasive and costly repairs that could need to be done. Getting rid of some chartreuse peacock print wall paper from the turn of the century and installing new light fixtures pales in comparison to even a small roof leak.
A note to the reader: I really did try to keep this as short as possible but soon realized it's 5 very extensive topics, so this one is a bit longer than I like to make these posts. Apologies for that, but hopefully you can glean something of value from it.
A good home inspection will cover all of these systems in great detail, but these are the items that can potentially be deal makers or breakers, for most real estate transactions.
So, I wanted to do an as short as possible "Things To Look For", for the average person in hopes that it might help them while they're out viewing properties. Also for agents that may be listing a property to know what us inspectors are going to be trying to find and minor maintenance or repairs that can help with the fluidity of the sale.
I did my best to bullet point some key items to look for on each of those systems.
I do want to note that some of the information below will site defects or points of concern. Not all of those things are always major concerns, just common defects that require normal maintenance. So don't rush to any harsh home judgments just because the windows need a little caulking maintenance around them, or the chimney is missing a rain cap. All homes need love and maintenance.
I always recommend having an inspection done by a licensed and certified home inspector for a more thorough review of a property prior to closing. Might I suggest someone like myself? c: 907-252-6450 (I have zero shame in that blatant, self promoting plug)
Foundations
What Type of Foundation Is It?
Poured concrete - good, Smooth looking concrete walls around base of structure.
Slab on grade - good, Poured concrete slab, no perimeter foundation walls visible.
Concrete block - less good, but still pretty good, Common looking concrete blocks, with mortared joints, think of a jail or school wall. Some block foundations are reinforced with steel rebar running through them, but not all.
Field stone (or rubble) - not that good, but somehow still standing, Old style from the late 1800's/early 1900's. Essentially a pile of different shaped stones/rocks/rubble sealed together with mortar. Looks like a pile of rocks with cement to seal the seams. Designed to allow moisture/water to pass through. (more common on the east coast in very old homes)
Post and Beam - not that good, but somehow still standing, Old style from the early 1900's where no stone or concrete is involved. Inferior to modern concrete foundations. A system of wooden posts supporting wooden beams. More susceptible to earthquakes and moisture damage. Typically require retro fitting to increase resistance to lateral movement and seismic activity.
What Should I Look For?
Large Cracks - Large cracks 1/4" or wider that are tapered, or wider and one end than the other can be an indication of settling. Not always structurally critical but notable, and may require further evaluation by a specialist.
Small Cracks - Small cracks, 1/4" wide and smaller of uniform width are very common with poured concrete. Often caused by shrinkage they generally pose no significant structural issue, but should be sealed to prevent moisture/water leaking through.
Horizontal Cracks - Horizontal cracks in a foundation are often signs of extreme pressures being put on the concrete structure from soil or hydrostatic (water/wet soil) pressure and may indicate a significant issue.
Spalling - Areas of concrete or block that seems to be crumbly, deteriorating or falling off. Typically caused from moisture wicking through the porous concrete, or from freeze thaw cycle on concrete/block that is often damp. Will often be seen in areas with efflorescence (white powdery salt and mineral deposits from moisture wicking through masonry walls).
Deteriorated Mortar (block foundations) - Mortar is the cement mixture used in between bricks and blocks, basically the "seams" or "glue" that connect bricks/blocks. This can crack or deteriorate over time, and may need maintenance.
Drainage - Does the surround grade (angle of the soil, sidewalks, driveways) direct water away from the foundation or towards it? We want water to drain away from the foundation to prevent moisture intrusions and moisture related problems.
Downspouts - Do the downspouts from gutters drain next to the house, or are they directed away from the foundation with leaders or into storm drains? Again, we want to direct water away from the foundation and structure.
Erosion - Is there significant soil erosion near or around the foundation? That can indicate a drainage problem that could lead to moisture problems or undermining of the foundation or concrete slab.
Trees/Shrubs - Are trees or hedges planted next to the structure? If planted to close as trees and hedges get larger roots can grow beneath the foundation footers and cause uplift problems.
Structure (exterior siding, windows, trims and flashings)
You won't be able to see the structural framing members and different layers of the buildings weather resistant envelope (well, hopefully not), but you can see the exterior surfaces and look for weak spots in its armor.
Siding:
What kind of siding is it? Different types of siding will require different level of maintenance throughout their lifespan. For instance, vinyl and brick siding requires very little in the way of maintenance, where as cedar lap or plywood sheet siding will require paint & caulking maintenance occasionally to prolong its lifespan.
Peeling Paint - Are there areas of peeling or chipping paint? Paint breaks down over time and it the first line of defense for the exterior siding. If it is peeling or damaged it will need to be cleaned and repainted.
Blistering Paint - Often times when people are selling a house they will re-paint prior to listing it. Some cheaper paint services will rush through this, often times not allowing the siding to dry out after pressure washing it. When they paint over the siding that still has moisture in it, the moisture gets trapped behind the paint. As the moisture evaporates (expands) it can create blisters or bubbles in the paint. The blisters will fail prematurely compared to the rest of the paint.
Caulking - Are there areas (siding butt joints, seams, window trims, corners) that have caulking that has shrunk, cracked or come loose? Caulking breaks down over time and requires periodic maintenance to maintain its seal.
Loose or Damaged Siding - Are there ares of physical damage, loose boards or shingles? If so, repairs may be needed to prevent damaged to the building behind the siding or to prevent moisture intrusion.
Staining - Are there areas that looked stained from moisture runoff from the roof? Sometimes you can see staining on the fascia boards behind the gutters, or down walls that intersect with roof slopes when proper flashings have not been installed. These stains can indicate faulty gutter installation, improper slope, dirty gutters or issues with flashings.
Windows:
Caulking - Around windows and window trims is a very common place to see caulking that is failing or cracked. Caulking is a simple part of home maintenance that can prevent more serious moisture problems, so always check around windows for caulking maintenance or areas susceptible for moisture intrusion.
Flashing - Most flashing on windows will be covered by the exterior cladding (siding) and not visible. But the flashing at the top of the window (known as Head Flashing) if installed, is usually visible. There should be a head flashing at the top of most windows to direct any run off out and aways from the top (head) of the window.
Fogging - Fogging or moisture between the layers of glass in a double pane window means that the window seal has failed (often called a blown thermal pane). While mainly a cosmetic defect, affecting the visibility through the window, it also reduces the insulating properties of the glass. These windows will need to be replaced. *There are some companies claiming to be able to repair them, but it typically just removes the cosmetic defect and does not help with the insulating properties of the window.
Cracked or Broken Glass - This one is pretty obvious, is the glass cracked or broken? If so the window will need to be replaced.
Sills - All window sills should have a gentle slope down and away from the glass to direct runoff aways from the window. *Window sills and trims are also a great place to check for deteriorated or rotted wood. Sharp corners are difficult places to seal up and easy place for moisture to work its way in.
Upside Down - Most modern windows will have two small holes near each corner on the bottom. These are called weep holes and are in place to allow any moisture that gets into the frame a way out, so it is not trapped. It's not wildly uncommon to find these caulked over, or at the top of a window instead of the bottom, meaning the window has been installed upside down.
Roofs
You wont be able to see too much of most roofs from the ground (in some cases none of it) during a quick showing of a property, so you will be limited on determining its overall condition.
What kind of roof is it?
There are many different styles of roof shapes, but less types of roof coverings. Here are some different types of roof coverings and their estimated serviceable life spans.
Asphalt Roll Roofing - 5-10 years.
3 Tab Asphalt Shingle - 15-20 years
Built Up Roofing/BUR (aka ModBit Roofing) - 15-20 years
Architectural Asphalt Shingle - 25-30 years
Presidential Asphalt Shingle (50 year shingle) - 50 years * This is a newer shingle system and has not been around long enough to prove its 50 year lifespan, but many brands will have a limited transferrable 50 year warranty.
Torch Down/Membrane - 20-30 years *Different type of membranes will have different lifespans. TPO- 22-30 years , PVC- 30 years, EPDM- 50 years.
Cedar Shingle - 30-50 years *Cedar roofs require more maintenance and upkeep than other styles of roof to prevent deterioration and prolong the lifespan. Please note that 50 years is an exception and requires diligent maintenance.
Cedar Shake - 30-50 years *Cedar roofs require more maintenance and upkeep than other styles of roof to prevent deterioration and prolong the lifespan. Please note that 50 years is an exception and requires diligent maintenance.
Corrugated Metal Roof - 30-45 years. The beauty of metal roofs it they typically require very little maintenance.
Raised Seam Metal - 50 years. The beauty of metal roofs it they typically require very little maintenance.
Cement Tile - 50+ years
Clay Tile - 50-100 years
Slate - 60-125 years. *Some hard slate roofs have been known to last up to 200 years with proper maintenance.
Other things to look for on roofs if you can see them.
Visible Damage - Damage from falling tree limbs or hail (not so much in the northwest, but elsewhere hail is a real thing).
Missing Shingles or Roofing Material - Places where shingles have been damaged, broken or slid out of place. Areas on other roofing materials that look worn, cracked, damaged or show ponding water or stains from ponding water. *ponding is only prevalent on "flat" roofs. - Cracked, cupped or curling cedar shingles/shakes. Those symptoms come with age on older cedar roofs that have not been well maintained and have been allowed to absorb moisture and dry out cyclically, causing the warping or cracking of the wood.
Tree Limbs - Tree limbs in contact with the roof will cause damage and excessive wear or tree limbs overhanging the roof will drop leave and debris onto the roof surface.
Debris - The build of of leaves, needles and other tree debris can reduce its lifespan by trapping moisture against the roofing material and not allowing it to dry out. -They can also cause issue with drainage and create areas of standing water on lower sloped roofs. -Some types of needles from trees are also acidic and can prematurely deteriorate shingles and roof coverings.
Moss - Areas that are covered in moss can trap moisture against the roofing materials and in some case even cause moisture to wick back up underneath the shingles or roofing material allowing moisture to get to the roof sheathing.
Chimneys - Chimneys like all things can deteriorate and need maintenance over time. Look at the mortar between the brick to see if its deteriorated, or any of the bricks are loose or spalling (chipping/crumbling). -Missing Rain Cap - Chimneys should have a rain cap installed to prevent moisture from going down the chimney flue, this is a very common one to find missing.
Kickout/Diverter Flashing - This small angled piece of flashing is attached to the exterior wall of a house where it intersects with a roof slope. It is designed to direct runoff into the gutter and away from exterior walls. *I have a separate post all about kickout/diverter flashings that I would recommend reading.
Plumbing
As with most of these systems you wont be able to see much in the way of plumbing. Most of the plumbing hiding in the walls, floors, chases, crawlspaces and basements. Unfinished basements will give you the best view of plumbing without going into a crawlspace, which most people wont be doing.
Places you may get a glimpse of the plumbing supply lines.
Water Heater - Around the water heater is one location you might be able to get a glimpse of some of the water supply lines to the home. Look at where the plumbing enters/exits the wall and attaches to the water heater.
Main water shutoff - If visible, is sometimes located near the water heater. In finished basements it may be hiding behind a small access cover on a wall where the main service line enters the building. Otherwise, it is usually located in a crawlspace, or in some cases out at the water meter by the street.
Fixture Supply Lines - Occasionally the covers are not fully installed on fixture supply lines or there is a larger than should be hole cut in the back of the cabinet below sinks. In these instances you may catch a glimpse of the type of piping used to supply water to that fixture.
Water Main Service Line
If you can get a peak at it, it will be attached to the main water shutoff.
Galvanized - Easily identified by it's galvanized coating that has a "silvery" look to it. -If it is galvanized you will most likely need to replace it in the near future. Not always, but in most cases galvanized pipes are nearing the end of their design life. They rust from the inside out slowly reducing flow and causing rust colored water with a metallic taste to it.
Other Types of Supply Lines - PVC or CPVC --Potable Plastic (a semi-flexible black plastic) --Copper
Types of Supply Line Plumbing.
Galvanized - Easily identified by it's galvanized coating that has a "silvery" look to it. Also by its fittings (where it connects to other pipes) are almost always threaded connections. -Concerns: Galvanized plumbing lines rust from the inside out (they can rust from the outside as well but less common), causing decreased water flow, rusty colored water and eventual failure of the pipe. It usually starts to show signs of deterioration around 40-50 years into its lifespan. Galvanized was very popular prior to 1960, meaning that most galvanized plumbing found in a home is old and nearing or beyond its intended design life. -In most cases if there is old galvanized plumbing in a home that is showing symptoms of age (rust colored water, reduced flow, water stains around piping) a plumber will suggest replacement.
Copper - Extremely common and a high quality long lasting style of plumbing. Easily identified by its copper color and its connections are commonly brazed (soldered). -It naturally helps prevent the growth of bacteria in supply lines. -Lifespan of approximately 70-80 years -Concern: It is susceptible to water that has a high acidity. Making it not the best choice for water coming from a well unless a water treating system installed to reduce the waters acidity.
Pex - The most popular newer style of plumbing supply piping is PEX. It is a flexible plastic that make it both cheap and easy to install. In the event you need to re-pipe your home or make repairs, more than likely the plumber will recommend PEX. It is also very common in new construction. -Lifespan of approximately 50 years.
Other Types of Supply Lines -PVC or CPVC -Polybutylene (Not good. No longer allowed in the US. Usually gray in color and found on the short fixture supply lines and valves below sinks)
Drain Lines
Cast Iron - Identified by often being dark or black in color, think of your cast iron cooking pan, also by the hub and spigot joints where it connects (where one pipe slides into the bell end of another). Cast iron has been used for centuries, but in the 1980's most residential plumbing switched over to ABS or PVC. -Can be found in homes built prior to 1975 -Lifespan of approximately 50-100 years *They may need replacement prior to the end of their expected lifespan.
Galvanized - Easily identified by it's galvanized coating that has a "silvery" look to it. Also by its fittings (where it connect to other pipes) are almost always threaded connections. -Concern: Galvanized plumbing lines rust from the inside out and are often nearing the end of their lifespan.
ABS (acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene) - A rigid black plastic pipe. Most common type of drain line you will find in new homes and homes built after 1975.
PVC (poly-vinyl-chloride) - A rigid white plastic pipe. Less common than ABS, but still widely used in residential construction.
*It is always recommended to get a professional sewer scope or septic inspection prior to closing on a property.
Electrical
You should NEVER be poking around in the electrical panel or sticking your fingers into places that may be carrying electricity unless you are fully qualified, even then still don't stick your fingers in there! But for a quick guide to VISUAL INSPECTION ONLY electrical things to look at, here we go.
Main Electrical Panel
Your main electrical panel in your house is where electricity enters your home from the main power lines (service) and is distributed to all of the different light fixtures, appliances and outlets.
Defective Panels
There are some types of electrical panels that have been deemed unsafe and serious fire safety hazards over the years. Due to manufacturer defects that allow for arching, overheating and an ignition source for a fire to start.
For the sake of everyones safety I will always recommend replacement of these panels by a licensed electrician.
Federal Pacific Stab-Lok - 1950-1990. The concern with Federal Pacific Stab-Lok panels is that the breakers may not tripping when overloaded or a short circuit occurs. This overheating can cause a fire to start in the panel. *In an investigation by the CPSC, conducted in the early 1980's, they tested FPE breakers installed between 1960-1985. 51% of the breakers tested failed to trip when tested. (This investigation did not meet the requirements of the Underwriters Laboratories so the panels were not recalled.)
Zinsco - Mid 1950's - Early 1980's. The concern with Zinsco panels is that the breakers may not tripping when overloaded or a short circuit occurs. This overheating can cause the aluminum in the breaker to melt and fuse to the bus bar.
Bulldog/Pushmatic - Mid 1950's - Early 1980's. Again, problems with breakers tripping and overheating. -Over time the breakers become very stiff and difficult to operate. -The indicator on the breaker to show if it is on or off also gets stuck in one position or the other and does not allow the user to accurately identify the current state of on/off. -Older panels are not compatible with newer replacement breakers.
*Challenger - 1980 - Early 1990's. It was discovered that some challenger breaker would overheat during normal operating conditions, causing expansion and contraction and loosening the bone between the breaker and bus bar. That loosening would cause arching between the two, damaging both and eventually leading to full meltdown and/or fires. *Challenger panels are still considered acceptable by many electricians, however they are deemed defective in some states, and some insurance companies do not particularly love them.
Fuse Boxes - 1900 -1950's. Main concern is they are OLD and past their intended design life. Due to the age certain problems can arise from normal wear and tear of electrical current passing through, creating fire safety concerns. -They were not designed with todays electrical demands in mind and may not be suitable for the loads received from modern appliances and amenities. -People would often put a larger amperage fuse in the circuit overloading the wiring attached to that circuit. *in some cases people would put a penny behind a blown fuse to create the connection, but eliminating any overcurrent protection of the fuse, that was known as a Lincoln fuse (like Abraham Lincoln on the penny).
Other Electrical Considerations When Viewing A Home
Some of these are not defects, just things to consider for livability sake. Some are required by modern code but wont found in older homes and aren't necessarily a defect on their own.
GFCI Outlets - Gfci outlets are a protection device and should be located in all wet or damp areas of a home. Outlets in kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms near a basin, on the exterior of the home or any other location that is damp or has water near by should all be GFCI protected outlets. Keep in mind that one GFCI receptacle can protect all the outlets down stream of it, so you may only see one in a kitchen that is protecting all the rest. They can also be protected at the main panel by a GFCI breaker.
AFCI Outlets - You will not find them in most older homes unless there have been electrical upgrades done. They, like gfci's, can protect outlets downstream or rely on an AFCI breaker to protect the circuit. Now they are required in all living spaces inside of a home (new construction) and they've been required in bedrooms since 2002.
Switched Outlets - Common place in older home was to not hard wire in a ceiling light but rather to make one or two of the outlets operated by a switch. So you could plug in a lamp to one of those outlets and it would be switch operate.
2 Prong Outlets - Usually when you see a lot of these in a home that means the house is on an older wiring system that only used two wires and did not have a ground wire for the branch circuit wiring. It's not a defect unless you wire in a 3 prong outlet that is not grounded, then it becomes a safety concern. -They can be converted to 3 prong outlets if the circuit is protected by a GFCI to simulate a ground and the protection of a grounded system. -Option 2 is to rewire the house with modern wiring containing a ground wire, but that can get expensive.
Not Enough Outlets (for modern times)- It isn't uncommon in old homes to only find 1 or 2 outlets in each room. Back when they were built that wasn't an issue because we didn't use so many electronics or appliances. Nowadays we rely heavily on the ability to have multiple monitors, charge phones/ipads/laptops, big screen tv's with stereo systems, etc all plugged in at the same time. - This is not a defect, but if you decide one outlet is enough because you can chain three power strips together and plug everything into one outlet, then it can become a problem. It can be a nuisance and trip the breaker often, or it can overload the circuit and heat up the wiring that is not rated to carry that much of a load.
Well, that's about all I can fit into a quick run down of the big 5 and probably more than most of you wanted to read on these riveting, edge of your seat topics. Hopefully, if nothing else, it was slightly informative and will help you along your way to buying, selling or maintaining your home. As usual, this is not the end all be all on any of those systems, just a beginners guide to help you know a little bit more. All of those topics could be studied in depth if one cared to do so. But for now, good luck and thank you for reading.
Cheers,
Brennan
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